Leigh on Sea to Ramsgate
Monday 19th May, it was a 5.00am departure from Leigh-on-Sea, the weather was overcast, with a wind easterly F2. Endeavour LO4l, slipped her lines from Bell Wharf taking the ebb tide down the Thames Estuary, destination Ramsgate. Some Endeavour background information for you. She is a cockle bawley with a length of 35' and more importantly a draft of just 3'6" and built by Cole and Wiggins in 1926, so very shortly to become a centenarian.
During the Great Storm in 1987, Endeavour sank in the River Medway. She was subsequently refloated, restored and now looks 'the part' alongside her Operation Dynamo contemporaries.
Onboard Endeavour for the trip to Dunkirk there was a crew of eight, ably skippered by Endeavour stalwart Alan Barttram.
Approaching North Foreland, the wind increased to F4 from the north east and we arrived at lunchtime after a 6 hour passage. In Ramsgate harbour there were 65 Dunkirk Little Ships, each vessel had a crew and a story to tell. Added to the hundreds of excited crews was seemingly the entire population of Ramsgate turning out to watch the military marching bands, air displays, and spectacular ceremonies.
Such was the mounting anticipation of the Channel Crossing that Endeavour's crew often sought the need for refreshments at regular intervals, courtesy of The Royal Victoria Pavilion (aka Wetherspoons- Ed).
The Channel crossing was predicted to be in relative calm weather conditions, not too dissimilar to those experienced by the crews 85 years ago. However, judging by medium-term weather forecasts it was becoming clear that the scheduled return from Dunkirk on the following Monday was serious doubt due to increasing wind.
Ramsgate to Dunkirk
On Wednesday 21st May, there was a spectacular sunrise over Ramsgate harbour and soon after all the little Ships came together in a neat formation, with Endeavour in flotilla position E3. The flotilla commenced its journey to Dunkirk, an amazing sight 60 sma1l boats retracing their footsteps from 85 years ago. A singular moment in time and history. We listened in on radio instructions being communicated to the fleet, speed 5.4 kts, hold station or alter course, keep formation, flag etiquette, it made for a welcome distraction from the noise produced from our boat's Lister 80 HP engine.
While the fleet proceeded to Dunkirk, some 1,100 migrants crossed the Channel to England. They passed by Royal Navy Patrol boats, TV crews and the ADL5 Honorary Admiral Prince Michael of Kent flying the Royal Standard. The French coastguard ensured their safe passage to UK territorial waters. It was peculiar to witness first hand, made all the more harrowing by the later announcement that two migrants had drowned that day.
As we motored closer to Dunkirk, the wind freshened from the north east and the sea state became a bit lumpy. The accommodation on Endeavour is best described as between basic and minimalist, with the deck exposed to the elements, she is after all a cockle boat. It's likely we were one of the few open deck boats making the crossing, having looked at the boats around us with crews sitting comfortably in enclosed wheelhouses and upholstered cabins. Somehow a bacon roll and a steaming mug of tea always tastes better when consumed on a wet open deck With jackets well and truly zipped up and backs to the wind and spray we ventured forth.
During the passage our thoughts turned to the original crew of Endeavour 85 years ago, they would have left the safety of their homes to be thrust into the unforgiving battleground of Dunkirk. It was a 10-hour crossing to reach the Trystram Lock, the designated entrance to Dunkirk harbour.
Dunkirk
Our time in Dunkirk was short lived due to the worsening weather forecast for the scheduled return trip. Most of the crew returned to England via Calais and commercial crossings. For the time spent moored in the Port du Bassin du Commerce all the boat owners and crews were friendly and accommodating. There was a huge sense of camaraderie and bonhomie between all the crews. Everybody was interested to learn more about their neighbouring boat's history and the people who had sailed over then and those sailing now.
It was especially enjoyable to snoop around the other boats, in particular the Thames Barges Pudge and Greta, the tug Challenge and the motor yacht White Marlin.
Endeavour was moored alongside the passenger boat New Britannic and we were all very impressed with their back to basics arrangements onboard, with its 'al-fresco' galley.
Anyone visiting Dunkirk must pay a visit to the Operation Dynamo Museum, a fascinating insight into the evacuation, with numerous artifacts from the time and very emotionally evocative. 3 hours very well spent. Leaving the museum and walking the streets of Dunkirk seeing churches and other buildings with bullet holes and artillery damage still in evidence today made for an interesting and humbling time. The people of Dunkirk made us feel very welcome.
Dunkirk to Ramsgate
The crew reconvened in Dunkirk on Thursday 29th to start preparing Endeavour's return to England the following day.
On Endeavour's motor back to Ramsgate, while in formation with boats including Our Lizzie, White Marlin and Wayfarer, Endeavour's crew placed a wreath in the sea. This was a mark of respect in memory of those aboard Renown. Renown, was a cockle boat like Endeavour, and together with other boats left Leigh on Sea in 1940 as part of Operation Dynamo. However, Renown hit a mine on her return journey from Dunkirk, with the tragic loss of all lives onboard.
Accompanying the fleet home from France was a reported 1200 migrants, though we didn't see them. The flotilla did alter course to avoid an area where a coat and 2 lifejackets were spotted in the water. The returning fleet also had to avoid two floating containers and a tanker or two which put a few extra miles onto the trip. The wind in the afternoon increased to SW F4, cruising speed had to be reduced to keep the fleet together. For the last couple of hours, we were punching the tide, the entrance to Ramsgate harbour really couldn't have come quickly enough. It was a 10-hour crossing.
As we were arriving back in Ramsgate a week later than expected due to the weather, a quiet return to the marina was expected. Yet it was not so. We were amazed at how many well-wishers turned out to welcome back the fleet. There were hundreds of people at the entrance to the harbour, waving flags, together with a military band on the pontoon. Within moments of tying up in our berth, we were boarded by TV broadcasting crews interviewing skippers for recollections of the trip relayed live to the world.
The evening became a real celebration, remembering the events of 85 years ago and of our own successful return to Ramsgate.
Needless to say, Endeavour's crew, along with many others, returned to the Royal Victoria Pavilion for well-deserved refreshments.
It was an unforgettable trip on board Endeavour, enjoyable, thought provoking and at times extremely poignant, a memorable trip with the help and support of a great crew; Alan Barttram - Skipper, Justin Hitchcock - the Engine Room, Mark lnsull - South Essex guest journalist, Andy Lewis- First Mate, Cameron McGreggor - Media Coordinator, Carl Pullen - Catering Corps, Bill Shirley - Greenhorn, Robin Tothill - General Dogsbody.
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